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REVIEW: The Rolex Day-Date 40 228396TEM Platinum Diamond Dial Emerald Bezel is a timepiece that stands at the pinnacle of luxury watchmaking, representing the ultimate in exclusivity, craftsmanship, and prestige. As a professional watch reviewer, I will provide a comprehensive evaluation of this extraordinary model, highlighting its design, technical prowess, rarity, and the compelling reasons why it deserves a place in any serious collection.
Design and Materials
The Day-Date 40 228396TEM is crafted from 950 platinum, the most prestigious and dense precious metal used in watchmaking. Platinum’s unique luster and weight give the watch an unmistakable presence on the wrist, while its resistance to tarnish ensures it maintains its brilliance for generations. The 40mm case size is perfectly balanced, offering a modern yet timeless profile that suits both formal and casual attire.
The dial is a true work of art, fully paved with diamonds that shimmer with every movement. Each diamond is meticulously set, reflecting Rolex’s uncompromising standards for gem-setting. The indices are also diamond-set, further enhancing the dial’s opulence. The hands and day-date windows are crafted with the same attention to detail, ensuring legibility without detracting from the dial’s brilliance.
The bezel is set with baguette-cut emeralds, each selected for its vivid green hue and clarity. The emerald bezel is not only visually stunning but also extremely rare, as Rolex only produces a handful of these models each year. The contrast between the cool platinum, sparkling diamonds, and vibrant emeralds creates a visual harmony that is both bold and elegant.
Movement and Functionality
At the heart of the Day-Date 40 228396TEM is the Rolex Caliber 3255, a self-winding mechanical movement developed and manufactured entirely in-house. The Caliber 3255 is a certified Swiss chronometer, a designation reserved for high-precision watches that have passed the rigorous tests of the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
This movement features Rolex’s patented Chronergy escapement, which enhances efficiency and reliability. With a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, the watch can be set aside for nearly three days without losing accuracy. The movement also incorporates a blue Parachrom hairspring, which is highly resistant to shocks and magnetic fields, ensuring consistent performance in any environment.
The Day-Date complication, a signature of this model since its introduction in 1956, displays both the day of the week (spelled out in full) and the date. This practical feature, combined with the watch’s robust construction and water resistance, makes it suitable for daily wear despite its luxurious appearance.
Rarity and Collectibility
The 228396TEM is one of the rarest and most coveted Day-Date references. The combination of a platinum case, diamond-paved dial, and emerald-set bezel is produced in extremely limited quantities, making it a true collector’s piece. Rolex’s strict control over the distribution of such high-jewelry models ensures that only a select few are ever made available to the public.
Owning this watch is not just about possessing a beautiful object; it is about joining an exclusive club of connoisseurs who appreciate the very best in horology. The Day-Date 40 228396TEM is often seen on the wrists of world leaders, celebrities, and influential figures, further cementing its status as a symbol of success and achievement.
Condition and Value
The example listed on eBay was offered in pre-owned condition, with the original box and papers included. This is significant, as complete sets are highly desirable in the secondary market and help preserve the watch’s value. The price of $625,000 reflects both the intrinsic value of the materials and the watch’s rarity and desirability among collectors.
Rolex watches, particularly those in platinum with gem-set features, have demonstrated strong value retention and even appreciation over time. The Day-Date 40 228396TEM is unlikely to be an exception, especially as demand for ultra-rare, factory-set pieces continues to grow.
Reasons to Buy
1. Unmatched Prestige: The Day-Date 40 228396TEM is a statement of achievement and taste, recognized worldwide as a symbol of success.
2. Exceptional Craftsmanship: Every element, from the platinum case to the diamond-paved dial and emerald bezel, showcases Rolex’s mastery of both watchmaking and gem-setting.
3. Rarity: With extremely limited production, this reference is a true collector’s item that is unlikely to be seen on another wrist.
4. Investment Potential: Historically, rare Rolex models have performed exceptionally well in the secondary market, making this watch not only a pleasure to own but also a sound investment.
5. Versatility: Despite its opulence, the Day-Date 40 is robust and practical enough for daily wear, thanks to its reliable movement and water resistance.
6. Complete Set: The inclusion of original box and papers enhances the watch’s value and collectibility.
Conclusion
The Rolex Day-Date 40 228396TEM Platinum Diamond Dial Emerald Bezel is a masterpiece that transcends the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. It combines the finest materials, cutting-edge technology, and timeless design in a package that is as rare as it is beautiful. For the discerning collector or enthusiast, there are few watches that can match its allure, exclusivity, and long-term value. If you seek the ultimate expression of luxury and horological excellence, this is a watch that truly deserves your consideration.
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