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REVIEW: The Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/11 “Tiffany & Co.” Limited Edition (1986): A Professional Review
Introduction
Few watches in the world command the reverence and desirability of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and among its many references, the 3700/11 holds a particularly esteemed place. When paired with the rare “Tiffany & Co.” double signature, the result is a timepiece that transcends mere horology, entering the realm of art, history, and investment. The 1986 Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/11 “Tiffany & Co.” Limited Edition, as found on eBay, is a watch that encapsulates the best of vintage luxury, exclusivity, and timeless design. This review will explore its design, movement, provenance, collectability, and the compelling reasons why it deserves a place in any serious collection.
Design and Aesthetics
The Nautilus 3700/11 is the quintessential sports-luxury watch, designed by the legendary Gérald Genta. Its instantly recognizable porthole-inspired case, measuring 42mm in diameter, was considered oversized at its 1976 debut but is now perfectly in line with modern tastes. The 3700/11, produced from 1982 to 1990, features a slightly updated bracelet and case construction compared to the original 3700/1, offering improved comfort and durability.
The case is crafted from stainless steel, a material that, in the 1970s and 1980s, was a bold choice for a luxury watch. The finishing is exquisite, with alternating brushed and polished surfaces that catch the light in subtle, sophisticated ways. The integrated bracelet, with its distinctive links, flows seamlessly from the case, ensuring a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist.
The dial is a masterpiece of understated elegance. The horizontal embossed pattern, a Nautilus hallmark, adds depth and texture. The dark blue hue of the dial shifts in tone depending on the light, from deep navy to almost black, providing visual interest without ostentation. The applied white gold hour markers and hands, filled with tritium lume, offer excellent legibility and a warm vintage glow.
What truly sets this example apart is the “Tiffany & Co.” signature at 6 o’clock, beneath the Patek Philippe logo. Double-signed dials are among the most coveted in the collecting world, and the Tiffany stamp signifies a rare collaboration between two titans of luxury. The signature is crisp and well-proportioned, adding a layer of exclusivity and provenance.
Movement and Technical Excellence
Inside the Nautilus 3700/11 beats the ultra-thin caliber 28-255 C, based on the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 ébauche. This movement, used by only the most prestigious brands (including Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin), is renowned for its slim profile—just 3.05mm thick—allowing the Nautilus to maintain its svelte, elegant silhouette.
The 28-255 C is an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve, 36 jewels, and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. It features a beautifully finished rotor and bridges, though these are hidden behind the solid caseback, in keeping with the era’s design ethos. The movement is lauded for its reliability, precision, and historical significance, as it represents the pinnacle of thin automatic calibers from the golden age of Swiss watchmaking.
Provenance and Rarity
The “Tiffany & Co.” signature is not merely a decorative flourish; it is a mark of rarity and provenance. During the 1980s, only a small number of Patek Philippe watches were retailed through Tiffany’s flagship store in New York, and even fewer were Nautilus models. Each double-signed watch was stamped at Tiffany’s request, making them highly sought after by collectors.
The 3700/11 itself is a rare reference, with production numbers estimated at fewer than 1,300 pieces in stainless steel. Of these, only a fraction bear the Tiffany signature. The 1986 production year places this watch near the end of the 3700/11’s run, adding to its desirability as a late, mature example of the reference.
Collectability and Investment Potential
Vintage Patek Philippe Nautilus models have seen extraordinary appreciation in value over the past decade, and double-signed examples are at the very top of the market. The combination of the Nautilus’ iconic design, the historical significance of the 3700/11 reference, and the Tiffany & Co. signature creates a “perfect storm” of collectability.
Auction results consistently show that Tiffany-signed Nautilus watches command significant premiums over their single-signed counterparts. The rarity, provenance, and condition of each piece are critical factors, and examples in original, unpolished condition with complete documentation are especially prized.
Reasons to Buy
1. **Iconic Design**: The Nautilus 3700/11 is a masterpiece of 20th-century watch design, instantly recognizable and eternally stylish.
2. **Historical Significance**: As one of the earliest luxury sports watches, the Nautilus helped redefine the genre and remains a benchmark for all that followed.
3. **Exclusivity**: The Tiffany & Co. double signature elevates this watch to a level of rarity and desirability that few others can match.
4. **Investment Potential**: With demand for vintage Nautilus models at an all-time high, and Tiffany-signed examples in particular, this watch represents a sound investment with strong potential for appreciation.
5. **Craftsmanship**: The caliber 28-255 C is a technical marvel, and the overall finishing and build quality are second to none.
6. **Provenance**: Owning a watch with such a storied history and connection to two of the world’s most prestigious luxury brands is a privilege reserved for a select few.
Conclusion
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/11 “Tiffany & Co.” Limited Edition (1986) is more than just a watch; it is a piece of horological history, a symbol of taste and discernment, and a blue-chip collectible. Its combination of design, rarity, provenance, and investment potential make it one of the most desirable timepieces on the market today. For the discerning collector or investor, this is an opportunity that should not be missed.
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